Alone.... a true surf story.

A hurricane came to our area around 1982-83. This was the hurricane that took out the end of Sunglo pier. Anyway a large group of my high school buddies and I decided to charge the huge surf. It was exciting there was like sixteen of us, we were pumped, we drove and parked a group of cars at one end of the beach and drove a couple miles up the drift from the current and headed out. I remember thinking these were really big waves as they thundered across the beach. The noise was almost deafening.

The shore pound was a fierce solid six foot but we were determined to head out. I remember my two buddies Tom and Jimmy were on each side of me as we paddled out. I had a single fin 6'6" Gerry Lopez Lightning Bolt, it was a beauty dark maroon with white lightning bolts. The shore pound was a monster. I remember that I just kept paddling and paddling, duck diving relentless wave after wave for at least thirty minutes. I remember I paddled past the trough and to the outside breakers which were about half to three quarter of a mile out. I finally found a spot where there was lull.

I sat up on my board and started looking around for everyone , I couldn't see anyone. I looked back and I could see I was way out past the pier. I turned around facing outward and realized I was alone. I could hear the wind blowing across these huge faces. I could see huge waves breaking way out and finally they started breaking where I was. I probably had about a year's experience at this point and I realized that I needed to catch the smallest wave I could find so I could get back to the beach. Looking back I would say these waves were easily twenty to twenty five foot range.

A nice looking peak came in and I knew to try for the peaks because you could stand and have a face to ride. I started paddling for it but as it broke I pulled back as it just slammed down. I went for the next one paddled real hard and as I went to stand up , I was launched out in front of it . As I fell upside down I was amazed as at least six foot of wave face went by, then my board went by vertically on the face and then another six foot of water went by so the wave was at least eighteen foot. Then with tremendous force I was slammed underneath the water, I remember hitting the sandbar and pushing up off it but then the wave dragged me violently yanking hard on the leash. I had my leash leg bent hoping that the leash would hold. As popped my head through the whitewater my board slams down on my face. I grabbed it and got on it and bear hugged my board as walls of giant white water came slamming down, tumbling me end over end.

I finally made it to shore and started walking back towards the car after few minutes I see Jimmy and he comes running up to me asking me if I'm alright. I hadn't realized my board had slit a cut above my eye and blood was all down my side. At the car was the rest of the gang and I asked them where and what happened to them. They all said they couldn't get past the shore pound. Guess I got lucky!!!